About this sheet
Man and Woman of Urk in Sunday Dress with Broad Hats, 1932
This striking hand-colored lithograph is Plate XVII from the 1932 folio The National Costumes of Holland by Gratiane de Gardilanne and Elizabeth Whitney Moffatt, with accompanying commentary by Alma Oakes. Produced in only 500 copies for commercial release, this rare volume captures the richly varied folk costumes of the Netherlands in full color. This plate portrays a couple from Urk, a small fishing island in the Zuider Zee, The Netherlands, dressed in their formal Sunday attire.
The man stands proudly in a round black felt hat, typical of Urk’s traditional male headwear. His broadcloth coat, cut low in front, is secured with rows of silver buttons and worn over a red baize vest and high-necked shirt. His breeches, made of the coarse woolen cloth known as pilo, reach just below the knee and are fastened with a silver buckle. His black knitted stockings and silver-buckled shoes complete the ensemble. The wide black sash, silver fob, and scarf made of red and white cotton tied at the neck reflect both function and flair, common in seafaring communities.
The woman wears a close-fitting undercap of white cotton, trimmed in black satin, with a silver oorijzer that hugs the cheeks, giving a distinctive contour to the face. Over this she wears a lace-edged cap adorned with blue tulle and a black satin frill called a dasje. Her shawl of purple and blue silk is reserved for feast days and Sundays. Beneath it, the under-bodice is of black cashmere with sleeves of flowered velvet, while her apron is black cashmere with a printed cotton yoke.
Her corset, though not visible, would have been of chamois leather, bound with bright yellow braid and worn with a pointed stomacher. A decorative kerotlap of white cotton worked in cross-stitch, traditionally with floral motifs, is prominently displayed. Three heavy petticoats made of baize provide volume and structure to the skirt.
This carefully curated outfit reflects both modesty and pride, maintaining centuries-old tradition despite modernizing influences. At the time of publication, some elements of the costume had already disappeared from daily life in Urk, making this print a valuable cultural record.
Technique and condition
Chromolithographed by Vincent, Brooks, Day & Son in London, this print boasts excellent color retention and fine line clarity. The sheet is in superb condition with full margins and no creases or discoloration, ideal for archival preservation or framing.
Framing tips
Choose a black or deep oak frame to echo the dark tones of the clothing. A cream or light gray mat will highlight the intricate lacework and cross-stitch details. For added depth, consider a double mat with a deep red or navy blue inner accent to reflect the shawl or sash. UV-protective glass is recommended to preserve the color for decades to come.
